April 16, 2024

A Toast to Winston-Salem's Beard-Nominated Restaurants

Get to know Winston-Salem's James Beard-nominated restaurants and the talented chefs behind them.

James Beard restaurants in WS

Culinary travelers are flocking to Winston-Salem — and not just for the Moravian cookies. The city's food scene continues to make national headlines, bolstered by a lively independent restaurant scene and a number of bold, creative chefs. 

Several of the city's restaurants were recently named semifinalists for the prestigious James Beard Awards, widely considered the Oscars of the culinary world. From a pizza parlor to a pastry shop to an indy burger joint, the restaurants and the chefs that run them are all widely different. But they also have plenty in common — a penchant for taking chances, working hard, and a deep hunger to keep improving their craft. (Oh, and they are all really, really good at what they do.) 


 

Mission Pizza

  • Chef: Peyton Smith
  • Nomination: Best Chef (Southeast region)

Peyton SMith of Mission Pizza

How does a Winston-Salem native become an expert in crafting traditional Neapolitan-style pizza? Not only that, but how does a relative outsider to the restaurant industry get a James Beard nomination as one of the best chefs in the Southeast? Dedication. Hard work. Respect for the craft.

Peyton Smith didn’t set out to be a chef. He had a pharmaceutical job with a good salary but found it unfulfilling. “I just wanted to go in the direction of doing real things. Like making a real thing,” he says. His favorite food at the time was barbecue, but there were several reasons why that didn’t seem like a good business venture, he says. Then there was pizza. He spent time in New York and in Naples, Italy, eating and learning about pizza.

“I was introduced to this idea that there’s a different way to make pizza. So it started with this totally nondescript anonymous place in Naples and then into these coal-fired legacy, turn-of-the-century places in New York,” he says.

He also likes how easy it is to consume Neapolitan-style pizza and that it really showcases fresh ingredients — the ripe, juicy tomatoes; the soft, fresh cheese; the aromatic herbs. The crust is light and thin, but it’s also chewy and substantial. The process of making pizza this way is an unpredictable, ever-changing science project, he says — much like running a restaurant. This complexity in pizza-making is what has continued to challenge and intrigue him during his more than 12 years at the helm of Mission Pizza. “You’ve got so many incredible, fine technical procedures in a short amount of time,” he says. 

Weather, humidity, the thickness of the pizza sauce, the condition of the wood firing the pizza oven — all of these factors weigh into the outcome. He’s constantly tweaking and evolving the process. “The science of making pizza continues to fascinate me. There are so many intricacies and variables that make it so complex. It’s really kind of stupid to make pizza this way (Neapolitan-style), because it’s really the hardest way to make pizza,” he laughs.

If anything, a James Beard nomination affirms the countless hours he’s put in over the years. Smith also says it’s a testament to the hard work of his staff. As former competitive soccer player, he knows “a star player is nothing without a good team.”

Mission Pizza dish

IF YOU GO: Mission Pizza Napoletana

  • Where: 707 Trade St NW, Winston-Salem (downtown)
  • Contact: (336) 893-8217, missionpizzanapoletana.com
  • Good to know: Mission Pizza offers Dine-in, Takeout, and Gift Cards. Beer and wine are sold onsite. Custom dining experiences (including Pizzakase and Prix Fixe) are available by reservation and can be made online.
  • WHAT TO ORDER: While the Diavola and the Diego Marinara are the most popular pizzas, Smith also suggested a must-try pasta dish on the menu, the Bucatini All’Amatriciana.

 

Heff’s Burger Club

  • Chef: Justin Webster
  • Nomination: Best New Restaurant 2023 (nationwide)

Justin Webster from Heff's

Heff’s Burger Club’s smash burgers have become a smash hit. If you’re unfamiliar with the concept, it’s a 4 oz. patty smashed thin so that it cooks quickly to yield a crispy, crunchy burger. Justin Webster, executive chef and owner of Heff’s describes it as big, wide, and yummy. “We think they are the superior burgers,” he says.

There are around a half-dozen burgers on the menu, which are served with toppings such as griddled onions, hickory smoked bacon, pimiento cheese, locally-sourced pickles, spicy ketchup, or smoky Cheerwine bbq sauce. Webster, 30, came across them while working on a burger truck in Brooklyn. He was reminded of the old-school burgers of his youth, and that’s when an idea started to form.

“My idea was to elevate the fast-food burgers from my youth. So what if a Whopper was elevated? Or what if a Baconator was elevated? What if we used really good ingredients and made these fast food burgers really good?” he mused.

Fast forward to him working as the head chef at Krankies, a popular coffee shop-turned-restaurant in downtown Winston-Salem. He was asked to create a last-minute burger pop-up menu for an event at Krankies. They sold out — about 100 burgers — within an hour. The success prompted investors to back a brick-and-mortar spot on Fourth Street downtown, which opened in the summer of 2022. Less than a year later, Heff's was a James Beard semifinalist. In 2024 he showcased his culinary talents nationally while appearing on Food Network's "Chopped."

His 10-year plan is to open more restaurants with different concepts, but all in the same spirit as Heff’s, which has a vibe he described as “nontraditional.” Some may even call it weird, he says. “We’re unapologetically ourselves. We play loud punk music and cartoons on the TV. Our art is funky and offensive. That’s who we are. And if you’re cool and you’re nice, we’ll always give you a good experience.”

Piggy Wiggy

IF YOU GO: Heff’s Burger Club

  • Contact: (336) 813-9473, heffsburgerclub.com,
  • Good to know: On weekdays, Heff’s offers an option to Buy a Meal for someone in need. The $8 meal includes a burger and fries.
  • WHAT TO ORDER: “The Ladykiller is our magnum opus,” Webster says. ”To me, it’s a perfect burger — but the Piggy Wiggy is my go-to — simple, with bacon, griddled onions, cheese, spicy ketchup, and mayo.”

 

Bobby Boy Bakeshop

  • Chefs: John and Lucia Bobby
  • Nomination: Most Outstanding Bakery 2024 (nationwide)

John and Lucia Bobby from Bobby Boy Bakeshop

Walk into Bobby Boy Bakeshop on Reynolda Road, and you're instantly greeted by the aroma of fresh-baked bread and sugary delights. This isn't your average bakery; it's a haven for handcrafted pastries, artisanal breads, and delectable sandwiches, all created with passion and the finest ingredients. 

The bakery is owned by the husband-wife team of John and Lucia Bobby, two Winston-Salem natives who opened Bobby Boy in 2019 after working in acclaimed kitchens across the Southeast. The couple returned to the area seeking a slower pace and a chance to build something of their own. In 2024, they became the only bakery in the Carolinas nominated for a James Beard Award.

“It took us completely by surprise," John said after the nomination. “When you're a young chef, you always think, 'One day I’d love to get a James Beard Award,’ but then at some point your focus on all the work, and awards just go on the back burner."

Located a mile north of downtown in the Buena Vista neighborhood, Bobby Boy is known for its beautiful space and welcoming atmosphere — complete with an Instagram-worthy display case. But what truly elevates the bakery is its commitment to using only the finest ingredients. From local farms to high-quality flours and butter, they prioritize quality over convenience. Everything here is made daily, from the flaky croissants and sourdough loaves to the seasonal tarts and decadent éclairs. 

"We're obsessed with making things better," the couple stated. "So while our display cases will always have our staples, you can expect something new and enticing every time you walk through our doors."

Bobby Boy breads

IF YOU GO: Bobby Boy Bakeshop

  • Where: 1100 Reynolda Road, Winston-Salem
  • Contact: (336) 955-3284, bobbyboybakeshop.com
  • Good to know: While the bakery closes at 5 p.m., you can enjoy small plates prepared by Bobby Boy from 5:30–7:30 p.m. (Tue-Sat) at The Caviste wine shop, which is located inside the same building. (The buildings share a communal dining space and patio.)
  • WHAT TO ORDER: Honestly, anything. From the fresh-baked breads to Lucia's pastry perfections to the rotating sandwich options, we've never had anything that wasn't excellent. One unexpectedly delicious item? Their seasonal house-made sodas, many of which utilize fresh fruits and herbs grown onsite. (Our favorite? The strawberry lemonade. So refreshing!)

 

HONORABLE MENTION: Sweet Potatoes

  • NOMINATION: James Beard Semifinalist for Best Chef in 2022, 2023 (Stephanie Tyson)
  • DISCLAIMER: The content below was written before Sweet Potatoes closed in February 2025. While we were sad to see them go, they left a huge imprint on the local culinary scene. They were a downtown staple for more than 20 years, almost single-handedly reviving the Arts District's culinary scene, and continue to live and work in the city. So we felt it was best to continue telling their story. Here's to 20+ great years!

In 2023, Tyson and Vivián Joiner celebrated 20 years of running their Trade Street eatery, Sweet Potatoes Restaurant and Miss Ora’s Kitchen. They’ve collected numerous accolades through the years. Their first location — also on Trade Street — was an intimate space that commanded a two-hour wait for dinner from the very beginning. Since then, they’ve been featured in Our State and Southern Living magazines and the Food Network’s Guilty Pleasures show.

As for the James Beard nomination, Tyson recalls the first thing she thought when she heard she’d been nominated. “I thought, ‘Am I supposed to verify or register or do something? Because I haven’t done that yet.’ Vivián, my partner, keeps up with that stuff. I just wander through life with my head in the clouds thinking of food things. She keeps me grounded.”

She added that she never focuses on winning awards because the reward should be how well you do your job. “I just want to do what, I think, I was called to do, which is to feed people,” she says. “James Beard is very prestigious, so I guess this is saying that you did your job really well. So it’s an honor.”

While the recognition brings more people through the door and widespread respect within the industry, Tyson remains humble and grounded. After all, there's no time to pat yourself on the back when you’ve got to be on the line flipping burgers, cooking steaks, and making soup.

“I just try to do the best I can all the time, which is all I can do,” she says. “When you start getting your head caught up in stuff, you stop doing your job.”

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